Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive roster of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it joins a international community of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant culinary scene," according to a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has perennially shaped its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued conversation from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, evolved, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – little-known gems that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is precise and complicated. The cook beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to master the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to discover these stories and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
